By John Bartlett
A group of us are sitting on a ridge by a camp fire looking across a valley. The sun is setting behind the highest mountain in East Timor, Mt Tatamailau in the Ramelau Mountains. People and ponies are walking by our camp fire on their way home from the Ainaro market some four hours away, down south in the valley.
Next day as we walk along some of the tracks in the area I realise that these are just a small part of an amazing network. Because there are very few good roads and vehicles in East Timor, the tracks are essential to link the communities. Walking the tracks you meet many people and their ponies taking produce to market.
What a beautiful, rugged country this is, blessed with welcoming sociable people, a mild climate, very few cars on the roads and a network of walking tracks.
It's a trekkers' paradise! (And never once during the eight weeks of researching these treks in remote areas have I felt insecure or threatened.)
The hill tribes in the remote mountain regions are mostly subsistence farmers. Because of cloud rain they are able to grow crops year round and produce a reasonable food supply. However transport costs are very high as roads are poor and few, so they must sell most of their produce locally. This means that very few dollars come into the district, leaving little or no money for school books and fees, purchasing medicines, tools or other necessary supplies.
As a visitor trekking in Timor, whether you are in the mountains, Oecussi enclave or on Atauro Island you will need to hire a guide and buy accommodation and food. This greatly assists in rebuilding the local economy.
It is through links with local East Timorese in the remote areas that these trek notes have been developed. As a volunteer for CNRT (Council National Resistance Timor ) I first visited the country in late 1999. The CNRT leaders talked to volunteers about the needs of the people in the remote areas where many villages had been left devastated.
Back in Australia a group of us decided that where we could help most was with providing shelter. (After the rampages of the militia there was very little shelter left. It was the wet season and people were dying from exposure.)
We drove our two four wheel drive vehicles and tandem trailers loaded with the materials for building the shelters from Melbourne to Darwin.
Along with seven tonnes of steel pipe for the shelter frames purchased in Darwin,all this was shipped across to Dili.
The East Timorese had only one large 6WD truck, a troop carrier captured from the Indonesians. They lent us that truck. We took this, our vehicles and all our supplies on a military barge to Oecussi and then up into the remote mountains to house widows and children.
Guides took us across rivers, over mountain passes and to isolated, ravaged villages. We delivered shelters, and later other donated goods such as clothing, cooking utensils and books to local leaders who organised their distribution.
Over the years since the first trips, these links with village leaders and guides have been maintained. They have generously shared their knowledge of local geography and culture. Exploring the remote areas with them has enabled the development of these trek notes.
The East Timorese
Safety
Navigation
The seasons
Safety
Navigation
The seasons
This range is an isolated limestone formation about 20 kilometres south-east of Baucau. It is the birthplace of rivers that flow to the south and north coast. These are possibly the most rugged high mountains in Timor.
The trekking is medium to hard and could be done as a two or three-day walk, or separate one-day walks with an overnight stay in the high mountain village of Uaiboro.
The Ramelau range is the roof of central Timor. There is 4WD (four wheel drive) and truck access to the 1900 metre high village of Hatobuilico and from there you can start the trek over Mount Tatamailau. (At 2986 metres this is the country’s highest mountain.)
The trek is then along the spine of mountains and down to the town of Ainaro. A short bus trip and then a walk uphill completes the circuit back to Hatobuilico.
This medium to hard walk involves one night in a bush camp and one night in Ainaro.
Oecussi enclave is an extremely isolated and tranquil part of East Timor. This three-day trek starts from Oecussi town on the north coast, an overnight ferry trip west of Dili. It's a medium to hard hike with one night in the village of Cutete and one night camping. The land borders are all to Indonesian West Timor.
To organize the trek you will need to spend the first night or two after arrival in Oecussi town, The hike goes up the main water catchment valley and over the rugged broken coastal range to stay in Cutete.
Then travel east behind the coastal range to a very isolated border village, up through rain forest and over a pass amongst incredibly wild mountains, to camp on a beautiful grassy ridge.
The following day walk down beside the frontier river to the coast road. Then hike along the beach or road or catch a bus back to Oecussi town.
Atauro is a four-hour ferry trip north of Dili. The night before the trek can be spent at the beautiful eco resort of Tua Koin. The three-day trek is of medium difficulty with two short hard sections. (These sections could be avoided by using an alternate route)
The walk climbs up and through village gardens and steeply up into the rain forest and then along the spine of the island to the highest point, Mount Manucoco. This steep mountain is visible from Dili. Then west into a rich agricultural area, up to the isolated northern hills and back down to the east coast.
With only a few motor vehicles on the island which are only used on the short east coast road, it is a very peaceful place. First night you can camp in the mountains, second night camp or possibly arrange a village stay.
The East Timorese
Since independence and the recent withdrawal of the United Nations from East Timor (although a small contingent still remains) there is a strong feeling of life entering a new era. Many families are now returning to remote areas that they had been forced to leave during the Indonesian occupation.
The historically strong community organizations and beliefs still exist and are reinforced by villagers building and harvesting together. Many East Timorese believe that if any family member becomes ill it is because they have upset the ancestors, and a ritual ceremony is needed as a means of repentance and reparation.
People are realising that their government-which they have sacrificed so much to create can't really deliver much at this time, apart from schooling, a large police presence and some very basic medical care. The East Timorese can see that as villagers they need to work cooperatively and undertake projects themselves.
Trekking and Tourism
Trekking and tourism is a new concept to the East Timorese, so you will need to take the time to explain your requests and be patient, as they will often say yes in order not to offend, when they actually mean no. They are gracious hosts and feel obligated to make you feel welcome often spending money they can't afford, so please don’t overstay. Dress conservatively: knee length shorts for both women and men, womens' shoulders covered, especially when visiting someone's house.
A local guide knows the language, terrain and hazards, so employing them on these treks is essential. They are likely to share some of their culture and local stories with you.
Most importantly, if you get into trouble, your guide will be able to call for help quickly. In East Timor you are never more than a few hours walk from hamlets. However if cloud or fog suddenly closes in you are very isolated, and in this wild terrain it becomes quite dangerous to move without clear visibility.
Malae (foreigners) without guides have been lost, seriously injured and have died in these mountains during the United Nations era. Since the UN departure there are few or no helicopters to fly injured people to safety. Although it is the tropics, the temperature on the higher mountains can get down near freezing with strong and sometimes wet winds. If you are physically and mentally exhausted, wet and cold you can die from exposure.
Leave details of your trek and expected return time plus a margin for delays with the local police at the beginning of each trek. And be sure to check back with them on your return.
WaterAnother important reason for employing a guide is the difficulty of locating water in the high country. Particularly in the late dry season it may be impossible without a guide. Before setting off on any of the walks you should remember that if not acclimatized you will drink much more water than the locals: up to six litres per day. Your guide may not realise just how much water you are going to need. Discuss this with him before starting your trek.
All creek water needs boiling for three to four minutes or some other means of purification. Local people will drink from some springs but they boil all other water before drinking.
Navigation
Take a good quality compass with a reasonably large baseplate. Topographic maps of these regions are not readily available and our maps only show the immediate walk areas. To familiarise yourself with the surrounding areas, study and make notes from the topographic maps, either in Dili at Pedro's Villa Harmonia, or in the districts as shown on the contact list. In Atauro Gabriella also has a set of aerial photos of the island.
Note: four wheel drive (4WD) tracks in East Timor are almost always only used by people or horses.
The maps show location in degrees, minutes and seconds. The GPS readings are in degrees, minutes and minutes divided into decimal points.
All bearings provided in the trek guides are magnetic, direct from the compass dial.
The seasons
The most suitable time (really the only time) for trekking in Timor is during the dry season, which starts in March and runs through until November. The mountains and southerly regions receive some rain during the dry season. This is an approximation: some years the dry may start earlier or later and may end earlier or later.
Clothes and equipment Although Timor is in the tropics, the countryside varies from hot and humid coastal flats to cold, exposed, windy, wet mountain peaks and valleys into which the cold air drains. Suitable clothing and equipment is essential.
Outer garments
• a three-quarter length good quality waterproof parka coat with hood and draw cord. Also a draw cord at the waist, with full length zip (goretex is ideal but expensive)
• nylon waterproof outer pants are very useful in the wet grassy areas as they reduce heat loss, prevent leg cuts and scratches, stop leeches and keep your bum dry when sitting on the wet ground. Pyjama style with elastic waist is ideal.
• tropical long sleeved shirt with a collar, pockets and full front opening. The long sleeves reduce the chances of evening mosquito bites.
• fibre pile type jacket with full heavy-duty zip. They are light and retain heat even when wet.
Other clothes
• long trousers to be used in combination with over pants in wet high mountains and in coastal areas in the evening to guard against mosquito bites. Shorts are OK for walking in the warmer areas.
• underwear: cotton to use in warmer areas. Thermal T shirt in cold, wet areas as this material wicks perspiration away from the body and dries quickly.
• headgear: a wide brimmed hat for sun protection. For the cold a quality beanie or balaclava to reduce the huge heat loss from the head.
• boots & socks: thick, resilient socks such as Explorer. Medium weight boots. Most important is a sharp, aggressive tread, necessary for the very steep descents.
Equipment, water & food• medium rated sleeping bag suitable for zero or 1 to 2 degrees Celsius to be carried in waterproof, plastic bag. Full-length zip allows bag to be opened and used as a blanket in warmer areas.
• lightweight sleeping mat
• plastic sheet approximately 3 to 4 metres square and rope for shelter if delayed by rain or cloud. Can be used to cook under or as shelter for your guide if insufficient room in the tent. Also extra rope.
• light weight two person tent. Inner to be used as a mosquito dome including in urban areas. Needs to have very good ventilation to use in warmer low land areas. Outer to be attached in wet or dewy uplands.
• first aid kit with instructions (and some first aid knowledge!)
• Trangia type methylated spirit stove is ideal as it has pots included. Methylated spirits can only be purchased in the larger Dili supermarkets. An alternative fuel is medical alcohol. All creek water needs boiling for three to four minutes or some other means of purification. Local people will drink from some springs but boil all other water before drinking.
• food: Carry two days supply, including food for the guide. Unless conditions are very dry vegetables and fruit can be purchased from markets and farmers during the walk. Noodles and rice are easy to carry and quick to prepare. Some of that food can be carried in a billy or aluminum pot with a handle. (This allows rice to cook on a fire at the same time as other food is prepared on the stove.)
• water container (I take a 2 litre container however in some dry areas your guide may recommend buying a larger plastic bottle from a market before you set out.)
Contact list for Timor trekking
Contact list for Timor trekking
Phone contact in Atauro, Oecussi, and Ainaro is not reliable and you may have to try many times to connect. In Baguia and Hatobuilico the only communication is via the police radio network: this covers all of East Timor.
The contacts in each of the four trekking areas can provide or organise both accommodation, guides & possibly Timor ponies. Each area has a relevant set of 1.25,000 topographic maps.
In Dili at Villa Harmonia Pedro has a full set for all of the four areas. In Atauro Gabriella also has a set of aerial photos of the island. See Navigation
DILI• Villa Harmonia Guest House
Baucau Rd Becora (one kilometre east of market) 7255469
Pedro Lebre and family
Baucau Rd Becora (one kilometre east of market) 7255469
Pedro Lebre and family
• Sean Ferguson Borrell (author of Discover Dili booklet) mobile 725 6262
Email: discoverdili @ hotmail.com
Email: discoverdili @ hotmail.com
ATAURO ISLAND
Tua Koin (Eco Village)
Gabrielle Samson mobile 7236085 (SMS)
Guide is Thomas from Roman Luan. A local N G O
RAMALUE MOUNTAINS
Gabrielle Samson mobile 7236085 (SMS)
Guide is Thomas from Roman Luan. A local N G O
RAMALUE MOUNTAINS
Hatobuilico Guesthouse mobile 7258978 or 2430010 (Ainaro)
Alexandre & Adelaide Araujo
The guides Antonio and Alberto are nephews of Alexandre
OECUSSI ENCLAVEAlexandre & Adelaide Araujo
The guides Antonio and Alberto are nephews of Alexandre
• In Oecussi contact Zelia Da Cunha 7250750
• In Dili contact Herminio Lelan 7258853 (husband of Zelia)
Guide is Cesar Da Cunha (brother of Zelia)
MATEBEAN MOUNTAINS
Baguia
• contact Aquelina (policewoman & wife of Lucio Freitas Salvador) 7181 (police number)
Guide is Lucio Freitas Salvador
Guide is Lucio Freitas Salvador
• Australians, Rob and Ann Mills
• Note: Pedro from Villa Harmonia in Dili was born in this area..
AUSTRALIAthe author, John Bartlett: mobile 0418343966
Email: tuesdayhometime @ hotmail.com
MATEBEAN MOUNTAINS
The region
The alpine type Matabean mountains are probably the most rugged in Timor. Although lower than those in the Ramelau area, here you have a longer climb to get to the 2377 metre summit of Matebean Mane-the largest and southernmost of the two Matebean Mountains. The town of Baguia is only 400 metres above sea level.
From Baguia you walk to the 1200 metre high mountain village of Uaiboro nestled under the east cliffs of Matabean Mane. Then there is still a hard climb to the 2377 metre, very rocky and exposed summit of this mountain.
The two treks could be done as a 3-day walk, or three separate 1-day walks with overnight stays in Uaiboro. (See below, Uaiboro)
The people in the Baguia area are Makasae and Nauoti and most speak Makasae and Indonesian. A minority speaks Tetun and Portuguese and very few speak English. This community still has a traditional system, with local chiefs and very strong family commitments. On the road to Baguia you will notice traditional elevated thatched houses.
There is no driveable road to the south coast from Baguia. However a day’s walk will get you to the Timor Sea (Tasi Mane)and motor vehicle access to Viqueque.
AccessBuses and trucks to Baguia leave most days from above the upper market area of Baucau. The trip by 4WD takes three to four hours, in express mini bus four hours; the local three-tonne trucks carry passengers and take about five hours due to many stops and the difficulty getting through damaged sections of the roadway.
On the north coast road 20 kilometres east of Baucau is the village of Laga. (Baguia is 43 kilometres by road to the south.) Travel to the east end of Laga. Just before the Los Palos Road drops down to the left off the plateau there is a three-way intersection. Take the centre road. This curves around fairly level to the right and heads south-east up through dry farmland, past two new traditional elevated thatched houses. These overlook the Le Quinamo River 700 metres away down on the right hand side.
At the top of each of these traditional houses is Lulic, a secret area. The carved birds sitting at each end will bring the spirits through to this loft area called Gau where sacred objects are kept. This keeps the residents safe in the main part of the house. Only the head of the family is allowed into this top area. The building is supported on poles that are fitted with discs to prevent unwanted entry. The only access is via the front door up a removable ladder.
The road then drops down into the Laivai watershed with the river on the left hand side.
At the border between Laga and Baguia districts at a place called Ulilatta is a bridge over the Gomilafa River. Looking upstream through the rainforest the remains of an old stone bridge are visible with a 10 metre waterfall further upstream. This is a special area. After the rice harvest the local people bring a buffalo here and slaughter it. Then they feed the heart to the eel in the river. Prior to this the people are not allowed to swim here or they may come to harm. After feeding the eel it is OK to swim and this feeding also guarantees good rains and harvest for the next season.
The road then climbs up to cross into the southern watershed at an elevation of 460 metres, and into a wet fertile area with many terraced rice paddies. At Hiberi (38 kilometers from Laga) above the road on the right is the massive ruin of an old Portuguese school. This was destroyed in the 1940s.
Baguia: organising your trekOnce you have entered Baguia, at a right turn in the road is another large Portuguese ruin complete with battlements and dungeons. This was the district administration centre, where in 1959 the last uprising against the colonizers took place-with bloody reprisals against the Timorese. The main street runs east–west facing straight up towards the high plains and Matebean Feto, the northern and smallest of the two Mount Matebeans.
The police station and also Rob and Ann Mill’s house are half way up the hill on left opposite the school. Ann, Rob, guide Lucio and his wife Apolinario will welcome you and arrange accommodation. The guesthouse is able to provide meals and there is a kiosk up at the west end of town. Lucio should also be able to organize accommodation at Uaiboro (pronounced whyboro) or possibly a family stay elsewhere.
Baguia is on an east–west ridge at an elevation of 400 metres. The sub-district of Baguia is 207 square kilometres and has a population of approximately 11,000: mostly Catholic farmers whose produce is consumed locally due to the high cost of transport to other markets. The only reliable means of communicating with the area is now the Police National Radio Network (Bagui phone number: 7181). Policewoman Apolinario De Costa Freitas is the wife of guide Lucio Freitas Salvador. They both speak English, and can be contacted through Dili police, 670 7230686 ext 6022.
Rob and Ann are an Australian couple from Queensland. Ann teaches English in the local school and Rob works on the water supply system. They and the locals are keen for travellers to visit the area.
Possible treks:• to Matebean Mane
• north then north-west up over the high plains (an area of rolling hills) to Matebean Feto, then back to Uaiboro (see Matabean Feto trek notes)
• or alternatively going east from Matebean Feto over the plains then down through hillside vegetable farms back to Baguia.
Matebean Mane trek• north then north-west up over the high plains (an area of rolling hills) to Matebean Feto, then back to Uaiboro (see Matabean Feto trek notes)
• or alternatively going east from Matebean Feto over the plains then down through hillside vegetable farms back to Baguia.
Four wheel drive (4WD) tracks in East Timor are almost always only used by people or horses. The GPS readings are in degrees, minutes and decimal points of a minute. All bearings provided in the trek guides are magnetic, direct from the compass dial.
Matebean Mane is an extremely important and special place to the people of Timor as this is where the spirits and souls of the deceased reside. Please speak quietly whilst in the area, and show respect for this most sacred of places. Whilst on the mountain Timorese about to have a smoke will break some of their cigarette off and drop it on the ground to be shared with the mountain.
Baguia to OssohunaUaiboro is a three to four hour easy walk up from Baguia via Ossohuna. Walk up to the top of Baguia town toward the face of the mountains, on top of which are the grassy high plains. There is common land use by communities both east and west of these mountains. The people release cattle and horses to graze unattended.
The broken bitumen road swings left and gently climbs up through vegetable-growing land above to the right; and down to the left are terraced rice paddies. Away to the south-east are views to the Timor Sea and the mouth of the Ireberi River, about 20 kilometres away. It is takes less than two hours to walk the seven kilometres up to the hamlet of Ossohuna (South 08 39.282 East 126 37.547 elevation 808 metres). A 4WD with aggressive tyres and good driver can get to this point. This road ends about four kilometres further on to the south.
Looking up and to the west from the verandah of the Ossohuna school is the summit of Matebean Mane. The track heads up to a saddle on the ridge line a little to the left of the main peak. This is the only route up the mountain from the 1210 metre high hamlet of Uaiboro (pronounced why-bore-oh) which is up ahead and nestled in against the east side of the mountain.
Alternative exit routes to QuelicaiFrom Ossohuna, if you're on foot without a vehicle there are two alternate routes:
• There is a steep track down to the west from the high ridge saddle which leads down to Quelicai. From here a bus could be taken through to Baucau.
• Another route out of this area, suitable for hikers or cyclists, is south-west along a disused Japanese road to a small plateau on the west side of Mt Beremata. This is the isolated ancient village of Buibela. A track then goes down north-west to Quelicai where a bus could be taken to complete a circuit back to Baucau. The position of the route to Buibela (shown in green on the map,) is only approximate. Seek local information to locate the turnoff.
Ossohuna to UaiboroOssohuna is the start of the climb to the southernmost and largest mountain, Matebean Mane. The walk to Matabean Mane is shown on the map as an unbroken red line. It starts from the house of the community leader Martino De Silva, situated on the west side of the road, just north of the school. This walk is a reasonably hard slog. No scrambling required. (Some maps have the names of the Matabean mountains the wrong way round. The more southerly mountain is Matebean Mane. The north mountain and smaller of the two is Matebean Feto [Tetun mane = man feto =woman].)
Start on a grassy disused 4WD road, walk uphill over a felled tree at 240d. About 200 metres up on the left are the ruins of an old Portuguese community centre destroyed in the Indonesian invasion.
Continue uphill at 300d with fall away on left and a creek 200 metres away. The road crosses the small creek flowing away to the left. Twenty-five metres after crossing the creek on a bearing of 220d turn off to the right. This junction is at GPS S 08.39,219 E 126.36, 773. Then follow this walking track at 320d. Altitude is 958 metres, approximately 1.8 kilometres from Ossohuna. On this narrow track the fall is away to the right.
The track becomes a narrow road built by local forced labour so that the Indonesians could get access to the produce grown further up the mountain. Approximately 1000 people died in this area in battles following the Indonesian invasion in 1975, when 10,000 Timorese fled to the Matebean area. As you climb up the hill the remains of resistance fighters, including Jakerios, a Falantil commander, are buried on the right under the rocks.
The road leads up to level off at a saddle. To the right is a craggy mountain. This is an ancient village where many people lived high up in the rocks for safety. An uma-lulik (sacred house) stands on this summit. Turn a little to the left at this saddle. In 1987–88 Indonesians forced people from this area to move down to live on the south coast. Many are now returning.
Uaiboro Approximately 2.7 kilometres up is the village of Uaiboro. (GPS reading Uaiboro S 08.38, 593 E 126.36, 946 altitude 1210 metres)
This is the highest village in the area and is tucked in against the massive east face of Matebean Mane. It makes an ideal base for the walks:
• to Matebean Mane
• north then north-west up over the high plains (an area of rolling hills) to Matebean Feto, then back to Uaiboro
• or alternatively going east from Matebean Feto over the plains then down through hillside vegetable farms back to Baguia.
Uaiboro to Matabean Mano and back• north then north-west up over the high plains (an area of rolling hills) to Matebean Feto, then back to Uaiboro
• or alternatively going east from Matebean Feto over the plains then down through hillside vegetable farms back to Baguia.
Walk south from village through vegetable gardens and rocks, sidling (following the hill around staying fairly level) gently uphill with a fall away to the left. Continue south-west and onto the spur that leads up to a saddle just south-west of the mountain peak (this ridge at GPS S 08.38 .901 E 126.36 .742. altitude 1390 metres). Turn a little to the right and walk up the spur past many limestone rocks.
You will probably hear and see some of the farmers at work in their gardens. Climb over a rocky thorn-covered fence used to keep stock out of and above the village gardens. The farmers in this area have later crops than lower down the mountain due to the altitude, colder climate and extra cloud and rain. Walk past many thatched huts and houses and then into open eucalypt woodland with lots of moss and lichen attached to the sharp fluted limestone outcrops.
There are many tracks crossing and going off at angles. It would be very easy to get onto the wrong one, even with good visibility. It would be impossible to walk here in heavy cloud without a local guide.
During 1977–78 many people died in this area in battles with the Indonesian military. Aircraft came from Kupang bombing and strafing throughout the morning. At lunchtime the aircraft would land at Baucau, and the attack would resume in the afternoon. There was also naval shelling from the south coast.
Approximately two kilometres up from Uaiboro, bearing 250d, the track climbs above the tree line at around 1900 metres . Care is needed in this area as the eroded track is hidden by long grass up to a metre high. At around 2000 metres and directly south of the mountain top, climb over a natural-looking limestone fence into short grazed grassland. There are many bomb craters.
The track passes over caves inside of which are the bodies of Timorese killed by the Indonesian bombing. Large rocks have been jammed down to close the entries.
At 2080 metres is an area of huge fluted limestone outcrops. In the mist this looks like some long lost city. The track levels and swings a little to the north. On the right is a wooden church and storeroom. During October many people come here for a religious festival (festa). This building could be used as a refuge if necessary.
The summit of Matebean is now less than a kilometre away to the north-east, with a steep walk up to gain these last 250 metres of altitude. The start of this climb is on a bearing of 40d. Zigzag up amongst the rocks and be careful not to touch the broad leafed plants as these can cause itchiness. The route then goes up between huge monoliths of fluted sharp limestone set in open grass meadows,then sweeps around to the right for the final 100 metres ascent to the statue at the top. (Matebean Mane: GPS S 08.38.496 E 128.35.791 Altitude 2377 metres).
The views are truly stunning with a feeling of being on the top of the world or in a helicopter. On a clear day Tasi Feto (feto female)= north sea, and Tasi Mane (mane male rough)=southern sea are clearly visible. The 4.5 kilometre walk from Uaiboro 1170 metres below takes about five hours for a reasonably fit person, including lunch and snack breaks.
The top of Matebean is often shrouded in cloud. To get the view may require a one or two hour wait on the summit. I tried my mobile phone and was getting reception via Baucau from the top of Matebean Feto and Matebean Mane.
In dry conditions the walk back will take about two and a half hours. When wet the rocks on the track become very slippery and there is a real danger of a fall with perhaps serious consequences. The walk back down to Uaiboro in wet conditions could take from one to one and a half hours longer. You really do need to make an early morning start.
Trek B: Matebean FetoFor information about the region (including Baguia and Uaiboro), access to the walks and organising your trek, see above, Matabean Mane.
This day walk commences at Uaiboro and goes over the high plains to climb Matebean Feto, ending at Baguia.
The route out to Matabean Feto is shown on the map as a solid blue line, the route back to Baguia as a broken blue line.
The guide for this trek is Lucio Freitas Salvador and the second guide is Joao De Oliveira.
Uaiboro to Mt Matebean Feto summitStart from the north-west corner of the village of Uaiboro. The well-defined track climbs gently north-west with a fall away to the right, then heads north and becomes fairly steep.
Locals under Japanese forced labour constructed this track. It then swings north-west up against the steep face of Matebean Mane. Climb over a cane fence onto a small saddle and rocky knoll (GPS S 08,39.391. E 126,36. 811 Altitude 1457 metres).
Head downhill to the north on the formed track. Soon the track levels. When you enter a small patch of rain forest, leave the formed track, go to the right and walk downhill in short grass. On a bearing of 40d this route leads down to cross a small creek flowing away to the right.
Cross and climb up a muddy grass hill at 30d, on the right is the head of a deeply eroded tributary of the creek. Look back: there is a prominent 10 metre high pyramid-shaped limestone rock.
Continue to zigzag up using eroded cattle pads. Once on the open grassy spur turn a little left and follow it north at 340d. This leads to an area of old bomb craters and limestone outcrops. Continue walking up and cross a well-worn track. This is the main track connecting the upper farming area just south of Matebean Mane with Quelicia, a village down in the valley to the north-west. Then climb over a limestone fence between outcrops amongst many eroded bomb craters; to the top of the spur (GPS Elevation 1709 S 08, 37.707 E 126,36.811). This is Mount Labalou.
This is an old Indonesian military campsite. There are old latrine pits and other signs of a major military post. During the Indonesian invasion Falintil guerillas would make night attacks here. Many fleeing Indonesians, unfamiliar with the area, ran off the cliff tops to their death.
Joao De Oliveira, one of the two guides, walks barefoot and speaks no English. He has an amazing knowledge of the terrain, as he was a guerilla fighter in this area. Fighters fall into three groups: Falintil, who carried guns and arms.; Arma Branka, using Katana and Dima (machete and spear) and OPS, who used Katana and Tudik (knife). The last two groups also supplied, fed and gave information to Falintil. Joao was Arma Branca. When he stops he often chants, asking for the clouds to clear.
Due to the low cloud and drizzle during our trek the visibility for the day’s entire walk was about 30 metres maximum, so Joao had very few landmarks to navigate by. It would be extremely difficult and foolhardy to try to walk this area without someone like Joao to guide you when the cloud comes in.
From this high point proceed down hill at 350d with the fall on the left. About one kilometre down you will reach a saddle. There are lots of deep eroded cattle pads. I realised this must be like a pass where animals are funnelled in, to get between the northern and southern grazing areas.
A little off to the east is a large fluted limestone outcrop with an attractive alpine pine growing beside it. This rolling grassland is overgrazed and eroding. In the fog we could often hear and catch a glimpse of horses and cattle.
From here continue downhill in the same direction and cross a small creek. Then using cattle pads climb up onto a saddle immediately north-east of Matebean Feto. The route meanders around a bit to the right and left of a direct line.
Matebean Feto towers above this saddle. On cattle pads the twenty minute climb zigzags up the very steep slope on a bearing of 204d among limestone boulders, then crosses the ridge just north of the summit, and the final 50 metre scramble is approached from the northwest. (Top of Mt. Matebean Feto. GPS reading S 08,36. 954 E 126, 36.171 altitude 1963 metres.)
Mt Matebean Feto summit to BaguiaRetrace the route down to the saddle fifteen minutes away, continuing in this direction with a fall away to the left. The mountain shown on map as 1849 is on the right. The route curves right between this mountain and the one shown as 1871. It is two kilometres from here back to Mount Labalou.
The route then follows well-worn tracks a little to the east of the route out on a bearing of about 150d. It then leads down over the stone fence to the well-worn Qeuelicai cross track. Turn left and follow this Japanese track gently downhill, with the fall on the left approximately east.
At about two kilometres from Mount Labalou the way passes between two farm type dams. These are fed by a spring up to the left where you can fill your water bottle.
Many Lospalos people were massacred by Indonesian bombs at the site of this important water supply.
The track soon climbs over a rock wall. Apart from the first 20 minute morning climb up from Uaiboro most of the walk to this point is over open rolling heavily grazed grasslands. We saw no other people or buildings.
The well-used track now starts to drop off the high plains into steep rocky vegetable-growing farmland. This area is known as Ossulari.
The now rocky and sometimes gravelly track continues down south-east for another couple of kilometres to end at the Ossohuna–Baguia road. The last few hundred metres are on a ridge that is open and extremely steep. The track zigzags down on loose gravel and when wet is quiet dangerous. To tumble or roll forward would be disastrous.
On these extreme descents the Timorese suggest to keep your knees bent as this absorb some of the shock load on your legs, and when stepping forwards take your weight onto your heels, so that if you topple forward you have a chance of rebalancing with your toes.
Turn left onto the bitumen road and walk north-east 3.5 kilometres back to Baguia.
This walk takes about eight or nine hours including breaks.
On the day of our walk there was a heavy cloud cover and visibility was down to 30 metres maximum, so the route I have described will only be approximate. There are many other routes over the high plains up and down from other directions. I believe the views from some of these walks are magnificent. My mobile phone was getting reception via Baucau from the top of Matebean Feto and Matebean Mane.
This trekking is of medium to hard difficulty.
In these mountains beautiful sunny conditions can quickly turn into heavy fog. You can rapidly become lost and get into serious trouble. This is one of the main reasons why it is so important to have a guide.
Note: this trek guide was written in Australia from notes taken during a trip in June 2004. It should be taken as an indication only and common sense should be used at all times. The author welcomes any corrections to update this information.
MOUNTAIN BIKE CIRCUITBaucau–Lospalos–Viqueque–Baucau.
Baucau–Lospalos
Commencing at Baucau, a great mountain bike circuit would be to ride east along the north coast road and follow the main road up onto the plateau to Lospalos. (A more interesting alternative route is to continue along the coast road to Com, then inland to Lospalos.)
Commencing at Baucau, a great mountain bike circuit would be to ride east along the north coast road and follow the main road up onto the plateau to Lospalos. (A more interesting alternative route is to continue along the coast road to Com, then inland to Lospalos.)
While in this area it is worthwhile riding east past the large lake (It sometimes mysteriously empties,) to visit Tutuala and Jaco island, then return to Lospalos.
Lospalos–ViquequeStock up on supplies in Lospalos. Then take the west road from the centre of town to Illioma. This is a broken bitumen road that winds up and down the hills with great views of the Timor sea. (Warning: it is not possible to travel through on the south coast track shown on most maps. This track ends in the rainforest at the second river west of Lore after going through ancient mosquito-infested ruins.)
Turn right at the west end of Illioma and ride west down to the river where a broken bridge stops any further progress of motor vehicles. However it is not difficult to carry a bike over the river (no crocodiles).You now have the bitumen road to yourself: this leads through beautiful uninhabited rain forest to a very isolated rice growing area on the flood plain of the shallow fast flowing Irabere river. This section of the river is reputed to have a sizeable saltwater crocodile population.
Downstream there are some foundations of a bridge, construction of which was started during Indonesian times but was never completed. Seek local advice to find out where they cross the river. One of our party who lives in Illioma said these people regularly cross this river. There are very few Tetun speakers in this area, but most people speak Indonesian.
The Irabere river is 68km from Lospalos, and about the same distance on west is the provincial town of Viqueque, with the road right on the south coast for part of the way. The only section of circuit I have not traveled is between the Irabere river and Viqueque.
Viqueque to BaucauThe trip back to Baucau up and over the central range then down through lush rice-growing country is stunningly beautiful.
The above ride covers a distance of 300 to 350 kilometres.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Note: this trek guide was written in Australia from notes taken during a trip in July 2004. On this trip we traveled from Lospalos as far as the Irabere river then returned to Lospalos.
The notes should be taken as an indication only; use common sense at all times. If you complete this trip please write to us and we will upgrade our information.
OECUSSI ENCLAVEThe region
One of the attractions of Oecussi is its remoteness. Very few travelers have visited this tranquil backwater.
The East Timor enclave of Oecussi Ambeno is an overnight ferry trip west of Dili. Situated on the north coast, all of land borders are Indonesia West Timor. It is 27,000 square kilometres in area, with a population of almost 50,000 people. The Portuguese colonizers first arrived at Timor in 1514 and landed at Lifau, just west of Oecussi town. This was to be the capital for more than 100 years.
Because of its isolation Oecussi suffered greatly during the violence of 1999. With a much smaller population, there were almost as many houses destroyed, and many less rebuilt than in the Dili district. Many houses were dismantled and trucked to West Timor, with the fleets of trucks, Indonesian military (TNI) and militia leaving late in the day and returning next morning, as they were too frightened to stay over night in Oecussi. The local population took refuge in the mountains. Many would return at night to gather food from their gardens, then return to the mountains in the morning.
This continued well after the UN forces had arrived in the rest of East Timor. Many people were killed during this period.
A 17 year old lad named Lafu volunteered to take a message to the UN in East Timor, informing them of the terrible situation in Oecussi. A note was concealed in his thongs. He then walked, with much harassment, through a hostile West Timor and delivered the note to INTERFET. Some days later they helicoptered him back with communication equipment to report by radio the moments of TNI and the militia during the INTERFET landing. Lafu has become widely known as the 'Oecussi boy hero.'
AccessThe Dili overnight ferry to Oecussi runs two round trips a week; however there are occasional delays when it gets stuck on the sand bar at the end of the Oecussi pier and has to wait for the next tide. The craft, an Indonesian ferry/barge, is the only link to the outside world. On the trip out from Dili the deck is usually jam-packed with trucks, animals, goods and people. On the return trip there are many people with their produce on the lower deck. It appears that what can be carried on by a person is included in the fare. Most of the produce is bound for the markets of Dili.
Passengers are accommodated in an elevated lounge. Instant noodles, nibbles and a limited range of drinks can be purchased on board. The fare for a foreigner (Malae) is $14.00 one way. East Timorese pay $7.00
On arrival the view from sea at sunrise, of the jagged mountain range thrusting up behind the palm fringed town is dramatic.
Base towns: Oecussi & Cutete The only mobile phone service is in Oecussi town. At least three guesthouse/restaurants operate in the town.
The Hotel Oecussi is situated on the beach road 500 metres west of the pier. Telephone Fernando 7233880
Rao Restaurant motel: telephone Jasintha 7235417
Alegria Hotel Restaurant: telephone 7242192.
Rao and Alegria are a pleasant 15 minute walk from the pier. Go east to the first road and turn right, then walk south past the hospital over a crossroad and past Fernando’s store to a T intersection. Rao is on the right just before the T. Alegria is located on the high side of the east west road, a little west of the intersection.
Because of Oecussi's remoteness and lack of visitors there is no organized assistance for malae so don’t expect to rush in to town and out to the mountains in a day. The hire of a guide or interpreter can be arranged by phoning. In Dili, Herminio Lelan on 725 8853 or in Oecussi, Zelia Da Cunha on 725 0750.
Cesar Da Cunha and Agostinho Anuno were my guides. Herminio speaks excellent English. Cesar and Zelia speak reasonable English. Everybody speaks Bahasa Indonesian. The language of Oecussi is Biakino, which is spoken throughout most of West Timor. Cesar has spent some time in the mountains. Agostino has lived up there and has a network of friends and family in the mountains. He is familiar with the routes through the area.
The mountains are extremely abrupt, made up of a cemented conglomerate rock in various stages of weathering. The locals speak of many caves and deep rainforest gullies. To travel along the trackless ridges would be a real challenge as many of the saddles are actually gaps that may need climbing gear and climbing skills to negotiate.
Mt Maonmuti, although the highest mountain in this region (in the north-east corner of Oecussi) is less than 1,300 metres with a comfortably temperate climate. The village of Cutete, situated three hours walk up over a saddle to the south of Oecussi town, nestles under the main mountain peaks, making it an excellent base to explore the mountains, climb to the peaks, scale some of the rock faces or explore the caves that the locals speak of.
Accommodation in Cutete can be arranged by Padre Dasbach, an American priest who has lived there for many years. The people welcome guests, who in the short term can be accommodated at the new children’s center. If many people visit a traditional guest house will be constructed.
Expect to pay $10–$15 per night per person, a little more if meals are provided. If staying with families, I found a polite way to pay was to suggest the payment is to buy something for the children.
There is excellent pristine diving on the coral reefs, and inland at Bobameto I have heard that there are geothermal mud springs.
Oecussi Mountain circuit
(Warning: the last section of this trek goes along the border with Indonesia. If you are uncomfortable with this, there is a shorter less interesting route out from Cutete north to the coast. If walking in the border region, the East Timorese government's rule is that you must be accompanied by a local East Timorese guide.)
Four wheel drive (4WD) tracks in East Timor are almost always only used by people or horses. All bearings provided in the trek guides are magnetic, direct from the compass dial.
Oecussi town to BobocaseThe trek starts from the south side of Oecussi town. Walk west along the main east-west road and turn south at Sanane. Walk through Oetulu and up the Oetulu River valley. This river supplies most of the town's water with a diversion dam about three kilometres upstream from the main road.
Cross the river twice. On the left is a 20 degree bend in the large pipeline. Turn left here and cross the pipe then go right to follow the track, sidling uphill with the river down on the right. (The pipe crossing is approximately 2.5 kilometres from the main road). There are black cliffs on the hill to the west.
The valley around the water diversion structure upstream is quite beautiful and well worth a look. It is about 15 minutes walk up the river. Shortly after the pipe crossing-point the track forks: the right side goes straight ahead and level. Turn left and walk steeply up with a very steep fall on right. Then cross a small creek running away to right. This water is OK to drink.
50 metres further the track is held up with wire and logs. After a left curve onto a short spur then a curve to the right the track sidles along with the river 100 metres below on the right. The track is fairly level, with some short rock scrambles. Ignore any minor turnoffs and stick to the main track.
At a point where there is a view ahead to the right of a box canyon; a V in its rim marks the position of the river. Cross the rim just a little to the left of the V and then go into the upper section of the Oetulu river valley. Logically there must be a waterfall or rapids where the river drops into the canyon-however they are not visible. Another small creek comes down from the left and it is used to irrigate palms. There are excellent views back down the valley over Oecussi town and out to sea.
From the rim of the canyon the track continues in the same direction then curves right and eventually crosses the river. This is a pleasant rest spot. As there is habitation upstream the water needs boiling for a few minutes before drinking (as is the case throughout Timor).
After going 100 metres turn right and zigzag steeply uphill at 230d, ignoring any minor tracks. The track then levels with the river down on the left. Cross two fences, ignore the left track going down to the river, and take the right uphill into corn fields, then rice paddies and into the village of Bobocase. You may be able to purchase some coconuts for lunch here. Some young local will climb up one of the palms and drop them down.
On the 25th of October 1999 the first INTERFET ( UN military) helicopter flight into Oecussi took place. It landed here on the main rice paddy, and left communication equipment .They then took Lafu (the Oecussi boy hero) and dropped him off at Cintrana at the west side of Oecussi to radio back the movement of TNI and the militia during the INTERFET landing operation.
Bobocase to NipaneContinue south through the Bobocase village and up onto a saddle with views across the Tono River. Most of Oecussi is in the catchment of this river. Circle left around to the east side of the rice paddies and head down toward the valley. Then walk up a gently sloping hill at 130d parallel with paddies, a wooden fence and river on the left. The track leads into rainforest, then up into drier vegetation. Ignore the track on the left just before a saddle. This heads up towards Mt. Fatupeno (we took this and didn’t have enough time to get to the top of the mountain. This route becomes trackless and extremely steep and overgrown). Instead cross the saddle and continue at 120d.
Walk down to meet the road west of the village of Buneu. Continue through on a dirt road to Cutete with the fall away to the right to a bright school building on the left. This is the children’s centre Padre Dasbach has suggested using for visitors accommodation until a guest house can be built.
If continuing on to the border region, leave via the east side of Cutete. Walk down and over a wooden fence with a two metre diameter rock up on the left. Cross the creek and take the left fork on a bearing of 120d. The bed rock and soil then change and the vegetation becomes a dry open eucalypt woodland.
Cross a small creek running away to the right on a three-log bridge in a small pocket of rainforest. Continue on to a spur. Turn right and walk down the spur, and shortly after turn left to cross a small creek with the fall on the right. Ten metres further turn south and 30 metres down come to an unfinished new hand-made road. Go left and travel down the road at 110d.
After the road ends continue on down the spur until a well worn foot track drops down steeply to the left, at 90d. Turn here and carefully zigzag down to cross a creek with the flow away to the right. About one kilometre ahead is the border village of Nipane. There are border control police stationed here with two-way radio connection to the national police network.
Nipane to rest spotDuring Indonesian times the people of Nipane had access to markets via a road into West Timor . This access is no longer available, so they have taken on the massive task of constructing a road by hand out through the bush to connect up with the rest of Oecussi. However a major obstacle will be bridging the local river.
On leaving Nipane walk steeply up to the north, then cross a creek that flows to the south west. The track then goes uphill parallel with the international border which is about 100 metres off to the right. After you have walked about 20 minutes the track leads into a small hamlet on a terrace. Leave here via the left corner of the terrace, cross a fence and sidle up at 270d, with fall on left.
The track then leads north into rainforest and a creek with many bamboo pipe water diversions. Cross the creek, turn right and zigzag uphill with the creek on the right. Fifteen minutes on is a fork in the track. Go straight ahead on the right track which is now level. You will soon come to the last hamlet high up on the mountain.
You may be able to purchase some of the locals' lovely oranges. There are great views of Mt. Maonmuti at 240d and Mt. Sapu at 62d. Exit the hamlet in the direction of Mt. Sapu, up through vegetable gardens, then into wet rainforest. Climb over a large fallen eucalypt where the track climbs up steeply, then crosses a saddle approximately 200 metres south-east of the top of Mt. Sapu (this saddle is visible from the hamlet). The track then sidles along with fall on the right and circles to the left down into gloomy rain forest and crosses a creek.
This area is of great cultural significance to the locals. It is taboo to cut the bush, drink the water or take photos. After the second creek crossing at some beautiful rock pools the track emerges into an open area. On the left is a conglomerate rock knoll. This is an excellent rest spot with fantastic views across a void to the great cliffs of Mt. Maonmuti.
(I had hoped to travel the ridges north from here to the coast. However on seeing the huge gaps and cliffs between some of the mountain tops along the ridge line, I now believe this would at best be a very slow route that may require the use of climbing equipment).
Rest spot to camp spot & main coast roadThe track leads north, with a rocky climb down to cross a creek that flows away to the left. This takes the track below the huge bulk of the rocky mountain tops that are on the right; it then sidles along fairly level past two empty thatch huts. As we walked there were monkeys up ahead with a huge male sitting on a spur that juts out above and in front of the track. He sat there observing us for some time.
The track then climbs up to cross the spur just left of where the monkey was. The path then curves gently right up to a beautiful grassy saddle: an ideal camp site or base to climb to some of the mountain tops.
Cross the saddle and follow the track south-east down a gentle gradient in the direction of the frontier, with views left to the north down the Meto river valley and across the river into Indonesia. The river valley is the only route north to the coast.
After walking through areas of slash and burn the going becomes extremely steep as the track descends off to the north, and emerges from the bush at a spring beside a bamboo thicket then through vegetable gardens in the valley to the mountain locked hamlet of Bankio.
From here it is a three hour walk to Meobola on the coast road. Head north through vegetable fields. The path then curves right and drops steeply east down into the rockey gorge of the Meto river. Midstream is the international frontier, so be sure to keep left and stay in East Timor. Toward the end of June 2004 there was a gentle flow of water through this gorge.
Follow the river downstream, at first over boulders and rocks beneath a canopy of rainforest. The narrow gorge then widens; the stream bed widens and becomes gravel; then the water disappears into the gravel bed. After a short distance the track emerges into bright sunlight and scrubland. There are thatch roof houses on the river flats on both the Oecussi and Indonesian sides of the river.
At times the river meanders over and cuts into the hillside which forces you to take a short walk along the left side of the broad gravely river bed, until you are able to climb up onto the next river flat.
Three kilometres south of the coast road the river swings off to the right. The track remains close to the hills and meets the main coast road in a small border settlement of Meobola 300 metres west of the border crossing point. It is 15 kilometres west to Oecussi town. This could be walked along the beach or road. A regular bus runs from the border to town about every two hours.
This is a three-day circuit trek, difficulty medium to hard.
In these mountains beautiful sunny conditions can quickly turn into heavy fog. You can rapidly become lost and get into serious trouble. This is one of the main reasons why it is so important to have a guide.
Note: this trek guide was written in Australia from notes taken during a trip in June 2004. It should be taken as an indication only: use common sense at all times. The author welcomes any corrections to update this information.
A story of resistancePadre Dasbach is an American priest who has lived up in the mountains of Timor for thirty-eight years, the last twelve of these in the isolated village of Cutete. This village nestles in under the peaks of the coastal mountain range, up over a pass three hours walk south of Oecussi town. The views west from Cutete are over the braod valley of the Tono river which drains most of the enclave. From the pass to the north are extensive views of the coast road from Indonesia. While the village of Cutete and the border regions are now idyllic, while passing through you may reflect on some of the recent history of this area as told by Padre Dasbach:
This was back in the time of the popular consultation, and the voting for integration or independence from Indonesia. Up in Cutete during August September and October of 1999 we were fighting for our lives, having formed the only organised resistance in all of East Timor. (During the lead-up to the consultation, the Indonesian military (TNI) had disarmed the population except for the militia. Then the TNI and the militia worked together and couldn't be separated.)
The resistance group was in fact the first government of a free East Timor, although it only lasted three weeks. Our army had very few guns, but had made spears, bows and arrows, etc from local materials. Our resistance people had been distributing propaganda, so the enemy believed we were well armed. Passwords were needed to get by the guards we had posted at the mountain passes. At this time the whole of Oecussi was on fire.
The first attack came on the 22nd of September. Looking down from the mountains we could see the TNI and militia preparing for the three-hour trek up to the pass. Because of the way we were deployed we were able to beat off the first attack. Knowing there would be another attack, we removed all our food and valuables from the village and these were cached in the mountains, with the food thrown in the gullies and fenced off so it couldn't be seen.
The second and much stronger attack came on the 29th of September. Our fighters gave local resistance while making a slow and orderly retreat into the shelter of the mountains. Cutete was then burnt to the ground. In the late afternoon TNI and the militia would return to West Timor, being too frightened to stay in Oecussi overnight. We were 'lords of the night'.
During this period thousands of people took refuge and lived in the mountains. At night many people were coming and going along the mountain routes. We were able to steal medicines from the central clinic that was empty at the time. This allowed us to treat people who had been shot or stabbed while collecting food, etc from the lowlands. One of our fighters was shot dead by what seemed to be a stray bullet. Another got a bullet in the foot.
Our soldiers managed to cut down and kill five of the enemy as they came over the passes. There were no Falantil resistance fighters active in Oecussi.
RAMELAU MOUNTAINS CIRCUITThe region
The Ramelau mountains of East Timor (more than 30 million years old) have great significance as the home of the spirits and souls of the ancestors. In the local language (Mambae) the country's highest mountain, Tatamailau, is tata (old man) mai (oldest man) lau (most older and first). Timorese from all over the country come here every year on 7 October for a slow overnight pilgrimage up the mountain, to thank God and have happy thoughts.
This Ramelau region was originally a huge eucalypt forest which the Timorese were frightened to enter. In 1927 the Portuguese organized people into the area to set up farms.
Following their invasion of East Timor in 1975, the Indonesians ordered the people to move to the areas near the town. As the forest was a Falantil stronghold the Indonesian military forced the people to clear it. Open fighting between Falantil and the Indonesian military continued up until 1984 when Falantil tactics changed to clandestine guerrilla operations.
The farmers grow vegetables, mainly potatoes, using an unsustainable technique: slash, burn, and move on from exhausted soil. Severe soil erosion and major land slips resulted. A tree planting project has begun but this has no funding or expert advice. Many of the people are now moving back to live on their former remote hillside farms where they can grow crops for most of the year due to the cloud rain and mist.
Access From Dili a four hour drive south takes you to the central Timor hill town of Maubisse (1400 metres) in the northern foothills of the Ramelau mountains. Opposite the market is a good restaurant for lunch. The journey will take a little longer if you use the regular daily long distance bus service along the main road from Dili.
From Maubisse if using public transport, either take a local truck (not many and you may have a few hours wait) going to Hatabuilico, or catch the long distance bus and ask them to stop 10km south on the main road. (Look for an insignificent looking road that turns off sharply to the right (this is the Hatobuilico road). A small sign shows Same 32km. (If you get to the top of the range and see a Telcom road on the left you have gone 1.6km past the turnoff.) This broken bitumen road to Hatobuilico—not suitable for conventional cars—winds west through eucalypt woodland, hamlets and vegetable gardens at 1800 to 2000 metres.
Travel along the road to Hatobuilico is by four wheel drive or local truck (there may be a few hours wait.) The distance is 18km and takes one to one and a half hours.
Base town: Hatobuilico (a hillside and ridge town at almost 2000 metres) is surrounded by high mountains. The road ends at a major landslip just past the police station and the southern end of the town is only accessible on foot.
The guest house run by Alexandre Araujo, his wife Adelaide Barroi and children is 800 metres north of the police station on the low side of the road with the school and soccer field below. The family live next door above the market.
Alexandre is district superintendent of education. He speaks Tetun, English, Indonesian, Portuguese and Mambae. The guest house can accommodate about twelve people. Tariff is $10 per night and for a little more all meals can be provided.
Alexandre can organise a guide for about $10 per day plus all costs. A pony and attendant costs $14 per day extra. Alexandre's office phone number in Ainaro is 2430010, mobile 7258978. If unavailable please text.
The town power was off during the week of my visit. There is no telephone or mobile phone service; however the police radio is part of a national system.
Ramelau Mountain circuitFour wheel drive (4WD) tracks in East Timor are almost always only used by people or horses. The GPS readings are in degrees, minutes and decimal points of a minute. All bearings provided in the trek guides are magnetic, direct from the compass dial.
A pack horse is useful for carrying your gear up to Mt Tatamailau and along the ridge as far as Mt Deramalue. Beyond this the terrain becomes too difficult for a horse.
Start at Hatobuilico police station. You should provide the police with details of your trip and return plans. Ask them to inform the Ainaro police of your expected arrival time there.
Retrace youre steps back about a 100 metres and turn left. Then head uphill along a broken bitumen road at 230d between (on the right) a wooden house and (on the left) a solid concrete house. Further uphill turn around for good views to the left.
After almost one kilometre the road swings left. The left half of the road is missing, having slipped down away into the valley. At two kilometres the whole road has disappeared. This is the limit of accessibility by 4WD vehicles, which can be turned around by backing over the rock-filled channel on the right hand side of the road. The view back to Hatobuilico is in line with the steps of the pousada, the old restored Portuguese district administration building. Up to the right is Mt. Tatamailau, at 280d.
Walk over the gutter and uphill for 40 metres, then turn left onto a narrow foot track and walk 50 metres into eucalyptus woodland, with the fall on the left. On entering a clearing ahead across at 170d. On the left 40 metres downhill is the road slip. Continue across an old soccer field, with abandoned vegetable terraces up to the right. Walk up 10 metres and into woodland onto a 4WD track (GPS S 08,54 .392 E 125, 30.371 altitude 2310 metres.)
Turn right, walk uphill, at first at 240d, with the clearing down on the right past a large tree fallen uphill across the track. Zigzag uphill for about half an hour to a diversion track that cuts across a gully slip. To find this track count the number of turns from the fallen tree. When you get to the 12th or 13th major bend the turnoff is on the left (the south side of the track). At the outside of a sharp right turn, a white gravel arrow on the ground indicates the diversion route. (GPS S 08,54. 755 E 125,30. 079 altitude 2476) Take the diversion route at 200d to meet the mountain spine at a saddle two kilometres south of Mt. Tatamailau.
(An alternate route to the summit is to continue up the formed track to the north-west until the track starts to disappear. On the way, on the left, is a well made one metre wide fairly level track that sidles around (follows the hill around staying fairly level) with a fall on the left. This used to be the easy route to the mountain top; however this track is now impassable and dangerous due to the land slip. From the point where the track starts to disappear, zigzag steeply up cow paths, aiming to intersect the ridge approximately 200 metres south of the mountain top. Turn right onto the ridge and walk north along a well formed 4WD track to the summit.)
Follow the direction of the arrow, passing over a small pile of gravel on a bearing of 200d. Sidle along fairly level with a fall on the left into an area of large, dead eucalypts for about 15 minutes. On reaching an earth slip backtrack 10–15 metres and climb straight up the hill for about 100 metres. The slip will be parallel on the left. After100 metres a faint path leads left to the earth slip crossing point. Carefully cross the wide gap, keeping an eye uphill for any tumbling rocks. Sidle along for 50 metres then turn right and climb straight uphill at 300d for about ten minutes onto a well formed track cut into the hillside. Turn left and walk uphill at 200d. (GPS S 08,54. 717 E 125,29. 767 altitude 2651 metres)
This track was constructed in 1997. At 700 metres further on there is a sharp right switchback. Don't take this, but continue straight ahead down onto a grassy saddle-this is where our track meets the spine of the mountains and is a good lunch spot. (GPS S 08,54.887 E 125,29. 517 altitude 2777.) Leave packs here for the easy walk up to and back from Mt. Tatamailau.
Tatamailau summit walk If walking to Tatamailau, backtrack north-east for 30 metres to the switchback. Veer left and walk up a gentle gradient past some hollow tree stumps stuffed with rocks on the left. These are marker cairns. This track leads on to a small plateau among grassy hillocks and gnarled, large eucalypts. In a clearing 400 metres from the lunch spot the remains of a wooden church are on the right hand side (lectern and cross are still standing). Walk up a well-formed 4WD track for half an hour following a gentle ridge slope on a bearing of 40d. This is an easy walk to the highest point in Timor (2986 metres).
The religious monument on top is very exposed with magnificent 360d views. Many people come here to see the sunrise. Retrace the track back to the packs, along the backbone of East Timor. The watershed on the right goes to the north coast and the one on the left to the south coast.
High ridge walk to camp siteWith packs set off south west along a well-worn path. Up at first, then up and down following the ridge which is the roof of Timor. After crossing a rocky saddle, ignore the track straight ahead and go slightly downhill at 200d along the razorback ridge. The town of Asabe is visible 1500 metres below to the west. Climb up to the top of Mt. Deramelau. The views from here are superb, including back to Tatamailau and on to the route ahead along the tops of the mountain chain. (GPS S 08,55. 179 E 125, 29.146 altitude 2819 metres)
The razorback limestone ridge ahead at 240d ends abruptly at an impassable cliff, so backtrack 100 metres and go steeply down at about 300d to get below the level of the bottom of the cliffs. When down to this level turn left and sidle along level with the base of the cliffs, which are on the left. Travel south among large boulders fallen from the cliffs above. Then scramble back up onto the main ridge with the impassable cliff on the left. Turn right and proceed along the ridge at 240d . To the left and below are vegetable gardens and small huts. Straight ahead to the south is Mt. Hatofahi, an abrupt razor-backed conical shaped limestone mountain.
On reaching the base of Hatofahi take the right track that sidles level along the north-west side of the mountain, with the cliffs above to the left of this well-used track. Once past this obstacle walk up past the top of vegetable gardens and back onto the main ridge. Follow the ridge south-west down to a saddle to cross over a well-used track (the map does not show the cross track, only a district boundary going down to the south-east.) The route south-west to the rounded top of mount Laumeta is through exposed stunted eucalypt scrub. Then follow the ridge south-west, and south down to a saddle with a track going through it. Straight ahead to the west is Mount Berebei.
We camped in the valley to the north-west and were able to get water from the small creek. (All creek water in Timor needs boiling for a few minutes, or some other means of treatment to make it drinkable.)
I had intended walking the five kilometres over Mt Berebei, along the spine of mountains south-west over Mt Lebolia and Mt Ramelau, then east off the main ridge and south-east down to Ainaro. However after walking over Berebei, and downhill along the ridge, on a track through beautiful open woodland we reached a cliffy area in foggy conditions. The Timorese guides who had not traveled along this particular ridge before said the route ahead is too rough and dangerous to travel in these conditions. So we backtracked to the Lebolia Berebei saddle, turned right and headed south-east down toward Ainaro.
Ridge to overnight stay in AinaroFrom this saddle a well-used track heads downhill and south-east into open woodland. Continue across a saucer-shaped valley, passing on the left a small freestone wall and many dead ringbarked trees. This valley drains through a gorge on the right.
Leave the valley just above and uphill to the left of a saddle. Walk east down through vegetable gardens and fallen trees. Ahead on the left is a small plateau with a thatch house on top. We pass down below and to the right of this. The track leads up to the east edge of the plateau, where on the right is a house with a stick protruding 300mm up through the roof. The residents have barking dogs.
There are fantastic views here, east down into the deep valley of the Belulie river, and across to the Cablaque mountains. This rugged limestone range is geologically quite young at five million years.
Turn right along the ridge: the track then sidles along with the fall on the right (the main ridge goes away to the left.) The track crosses rolling farmland to the south-east edge of the plateau. At a large tall eucalypt on the right that has survived ringbarking, the track drops steeply along a spur through a forest of large eucalypts. There is a very steep dropoff on the left and occasional huts in the forest to the right.
We stopped for lunch beside two thatch huts on a small terrace on the right side of the track. (GPS S 08,56. 713 E 125,29 .237 altitude 2345 metres) Approximately one kilometre down, the track emerges into well-grazed grassland. Due to environmental damage by grazing animals there is no single distinct track (and my compass was broken).
With the afternoon sun on our backs we crossed a 100mm galvanized water pipe, walking in eroded cattle ruts, going east-south-east with Ainaro off to the right. From here on down to Ainaro this pipe is occasionally visible to the right and at times left of the track. The track takes a sharp right turn and then passes a cave up to the right. The pipeline goes through a small concrete reservoir. Follow the pipe across a small creek and onto an old dirt road cut into the hillside, with the fall away to the creek on the right. Then follow the road down under a bamboo aqueduct. This is Berluli. After the first few houses there is a bamboo water outlet on the left, a good place for a wash.
The road is now sealed but there are no signs of motor vehicle use. On the left is an unusual house roof, tiled with split bamboo. The view straight out left is Cablaque Mountain, ahead and to the right is Ainaro. Pass to the left of a Telcom tower and down to meet the Ainaro–Dili road. Turn right and follow this down across the river and up into Ainaro.
For the overnight stay there are at least three guest houses in Ainaro to choose from. The easiest way to locate these is to ask at the police station. At the same time inform the police that you have walked in from Hatobuilico. I enjoyed an excellent meal at the restaurant below the central market.
Ainaro to HatobuilicoIn the main street of Ainaro just above the market catch one of the regular long distance buses or some other vehicle. Travel twelve kilometres north-east to the hamlet of Lepulau. This is where the river draining the Hatobuilico valley crosses the highway. (If some of the directions seem a little imprecise this is because my compass broke on the way down from the mountains. However the walk ahead is not difficult.)
Start by walking up behind the school and past and to the right of a small concrete water reservoir, then uphill into a forest of casuarinas with an understory of coffee plants. The river is about 100 metres away on the right and slowly diverging away to the right.
The track comes out of the bush, turns a bit to the right, passes between two fishponds and under a bamboo aqueduct, then starts to climb steeply to the left. At a T intersection (there is a house just visible on the steep spur to the left) turn right. A waterfall is visible about a kilometre away on the right. The track goes up into more casuarinas, emerges into the open and immediately crosses a 4WD track. Walk up the steep foot track (crossing the 4WD track a few times). When you are on the narrow spur, pass to the right of a rocky creek and small cemetery, then climb up onto a bench cut into the hillside. There is a corrugated iron building on one side, and a limestone monument on the other. (GPS S 08.56, 099 E 125,31. 521 Elevation 1530 metres)
The view over the hamlet just right of the cemetery looks out over Ainaro all the way to the south coast. Leave via the opposite corner of the plateau. Go down about 30 metres, cross over a small dry stream, turn right and continue uphill parallel with the rocky creek off on the right. Aim for a saddle visible steeply up ahead. This track crisscrosses a grassy 4WD track, then levels out a little with about six houses and some farm dams away to the left.
The track leads north to cross the saddle to the left of Mt Sisalio which is up ahead to the right. From the saddle follow the 4WD track down to cross a creek flowing to the right. Head north-north-west. Either follow the road or take a short cut to the right of an earth dam and up along a well-used foot track to rejoin the road at an eroded saddle two kilometres south of Hatobuilico. At the start of town on the left at the base of a huge 100 metre high limestone rock is a spring-fed water reservoir, with drinkable water.
Please sign out at the police station.
The above trek is of medium to hard difficulty.
In these mountains beautiful sunny conditions can quickly turn into heavy fog. You can rapidly become lost and get into serious trouble. This is one of the main reasons why it is so important to have a guide.
Note: this trek guide was written in Australia from notes taken during a trip in June 2004. It should be taken as an indication only and common sense should be used at all times. The author welcomes any corrections to update this information.
ATAURO ISLAND The island
The mountainous tropical island of Atauro, situated thirty kilometers north of Dili in the Wetar strait, is 24 kilometers long by 10 kilometers wide. It has a population of 8000.
There are fewer than a dozen motor vehicles and the only driveable roads are on the east coast. The predominantly Protestant Christian population are mostly subsistence farmers and fishers. The main villages, Vila and Beloi, are also on the east coast.
Atauro is of volcanic origin, with unusual terracing along the south coast, and there are many offshore coral reefs.
AccessFrom Dili the weekly one way ferry trip (Saturdays only) leaving at 9am costs $7 for foreigners (Malae) and $4 for Timorese. During the three hour trip there are frequent sightings of dolphin, flying fish and other sea creatures.
The ferry docks at a concrete pier at the central east coast village of Beloi. A market is held under a huge shade tree on the beach at arrival and departure times.
The ferry leaves Baloi for the return trip at 3pm.
Alternatively you can take a local fishing boat or charter a speed boat from Dili to cross the strait.
Base
In Vila you can stay at Tua Koin. This Eco Village is owned and operated by the local Non-Government Organization (NGO) Roman Luan. It is set between the coast road and the beach three kilometers south of the Beloi pier. This can be organized by phoning Gabrielle Samson 723 6085. Contact is sometimes difficult; text is reliable, so leave a message.
Tua Koin was constructed from mostly natural materials by local builders. The houses in Timorese villages usually face inward. However for Malae the individual thatch roofed cabins face the sandy beach (and the sunrise). Toilets are composting and lighting is solar powered. The bathroom interior is a small tropical garden. Meals are provided.
There is a disused Indonesian hotel in Beloi. This was constructed without considering the lack of water on the island. The Atauro people I spoke to welcome appropriate tourism, but they are very concerned by talk in Dili of 'tourism proper' with a large hotel, golf course and a road around the island.
Thomas was my guide interpreter. He speaks reasonable English, Bahasa Indonesian and Tetun as well as the local language, Maquili. He is based at Tua Koin.
Atauro CircuitNote: The two difficult sections in this walk can be avoided. An easier, although less interesting route to and from Mt Manucoco, would be to walk up from the Anartutu side of the range, on a track that crosses the main range in a saddle 600 meters north of Mt Manucoco. Then turn right and walk south to the summit.
Four wheel drive (4WD) tracks in East Timor are almost always only used by people or horses. The GPS readings are in degrees, minutes and decimal points of a minute. All bearings provided in the trek guides are magnetic, direct from the compass dial.
Vila to mountain hutStart in the seaside village of Vila and walk south to a T in the last road. Turn right and go west uphill with Eldai Creek 100 metres away on the left. The track and creek converge. Then walk up past a concrete reservoir. Follow pipes upstream with the creek now on the right, through rain forest. Fifteen minutes after leaving the last house cross a stile; there is then a fence on the left. Just after a gurgling concrete water reservoir on the left, turn off left through a gap in a rock wall, cross over a pipe and walk uphill in vegetable gardens on a spur at 200d, then almost under a corn store up in a tree and onto a 4WD track.
Turn left and south. The hamlet of Romanua is situated here on a saddle at an elevation of 300 metres. The temperature here is cooler and more pleasant than down on the coast.
From the saddle walk west down the dirt road. Across the valley on the left is Maulako . After going 750 metres turn right over a pipe where there is a join in it. Scramble up the bank and sidle level into rainforest. Under huge trees there are three water reservoirs. This area is used for washing clothes. Cross a dry creek with the slope away to the left. Sidle along to the crest of the spur with a rocky knoll on the left of the track. Turn off right and follow the track west up a gentle spur, going straight towards the mountains. This leads up through vegetable fields. At a fork in the track ignore the right track and continue straight ahead under a coconut tree and a dead tree overhead. It takes six minutes to get to the next fork.
At a white-trunked gnarled tree, to the right of which is bamboo, take the right fork bearing 300d. Soon you arrive at a T in the track with bamboo straight ahead. Turn right and head north into rain forest. The mountain is now on the left side. After 50 metres the track swings left and zigzags back up into vegetable gardens.
Turn left where there is a bamboo thicket on the right. Zigzag up the spur with a rainforest clad mountain towering over to the north-west. There are great views back out to sea. Climb steeply. At an altitude of about 740 metres the very steep track goes into rainforest and the spur narrows. Continue up into sunlight onto a saddle and a T intersection. Turn right onto the track that leads north. This is the mountain spine of Atauro Island.
About 100 metres further on the track turns left and levels. Five metres along on the right a faint track is just visible in long grass. Turn right northwards up the open grassed ridge. The level track we turned off goes west to Anartutu.
Our track climbs north into the rain forest. The ridge narrows to a razorback in moist, very slippery black soil with a precipice one meter away to the right. The indistinct track then curves to the right, off the ridge and onto the steep slope. This short section is difficult and dangerous. The track is extremely slippery. You need to work along using hands and feet, holding onto the ferns and roots as you slide one foot along at a time. Most of the ferns will only take part of your weight. The drop below is huge. A couple of the Timorese in our party took their sandals off so that they could get extra traction with their toes along this short dangerous section.
Scramble to the left and back onto the main ridge. Shortly after regaining the ridge, in rainforest after a bamboo thicket, we curved off and gently down to the left into an unmaintained coffee growing area.
If continuing north along the main ridge the route will cross a rainforest mountain top to a saddle immediately south of Manucoco. We rejoined the ridge at this saddle. The coffee plants grow in the shade of a spreading white trunked acacia, which the Portuguese imported from Brazil. We followed the barely visible formation of an old track down to the west, (fall on the left for about one kilometre) to emerge onto a spur on a grassed terrace and a rough tin roofed hut. There are views west over farm land to Mt Tutonairana.
We spent the night here. Thomas walked down in the direction of a village and returned about an hour later with four litres of muddy water, which we boiled for drinking.
Mountain hut to Manucoco summitWe left the hut at 20d on an overgrown track for the fifteen minute walk back up onto the main ridge. After ten minutes we crossed a slippery, rocky scree slope, falling away left. The track then curves to 60d to meet the ridge and the alternate route in rainforest. Travel north along the narrow ridge and down onto a narrow saddle.
This southern approach to Mt Manucuco is of great cultural significance. Local folklore says it is dangerous to talk, pick up any objects or think badly of the area as this may cause you to become sick or even die, or the jungle python may change into another animal or person (maybe your friend) and attack you. The track could also disappear. If this happens sit quietly, apologise and pray. Then you may be OK.
Carefully scramble up the rocky razorback exposed ridge to the top of Mt. Manucoco. Nine hundred and ninety five metres high, it is the highest point on Atauro Island. There is a survey marker here, although the jungle clad mountain to the south looks higher and blocks some of the view of the mainland. The views in all other directions are magnificent. The vegetation is very stunted eucalypt and button grass.
Manucoco was once covered in jungle and had no name. At the time a chicken at the top of the mountain made a song, and the people to the north, south, east and west listened to the song and named the mountain. The word Manucoco means Manu (chicken or rooster) Cocu (chicken song or crowing rooster).
Manucoco summit to IllitimurScramble north down a rock shelf into rainforest. Continue up and down, along and beside the ridge. After ten minutes you come to a saddle with a distinct cross track. To the right, it heads east down to Romanua, and to the west to Anartutu.
The easiest access to and from Mt Manucoco would be to walk up to this saddle from the Anartutu side of the range, turn right then walk the 600 meters south to the summit.
On the ridge climb north in thick rainforest for approximately 20 metres. Leave the ridge, get onto the east face of the mountain and scramble along the very slippery, very steep slope by holding onto ferns, grasses and roots to work one hand or one foot at a time along this very dangerous section. Extreme concentration is required as most of the handholds are not strong enough to take a person’s full weight. To lose your grip here would probably be fatal.
Climb back onto the ridge and up to the top of the last high mountain. Thick rainforest blocks the view. A little north the track curves left and leaves the rainforest.
Look back from this point and the rainforest-clad mountain south of the open top of Manucoco is clearly the higher of the two. (It may look higher due to the taller vegetation.) There are excellent views north-east of our route to the small grass plains and the northernmost point of this walk, at the narrow end of the island.
Proceed north along a distinct track down through open sclerophyll eucalypt grassy woodland. The track heads north and to the right of a rocky outcrop. Continue along the undulating path until a track joins on the left. Turn off to the left and sidle along, fairly level at 260d. A palm fence appears on the left the fall is away to the right. Turn left through an opening in the fence. A thatched house is10 metres up to the south. This is Makadardi.
Walk at 190d past houses and over a gentle spur sloping away to the right. Keep to the main track, now amongst lush vegetable gardens and thatch houses. At a Y junction take the right side. Close by, go left. Then climb up a ladder over a two meter high rock fence out of the village and down a rocky gorge. A creek is down on the left. Then climb over a rickety wood fence. No houses here, at a fork in the track. Veer left at 230d. Ten to twenty metres further on at a T, veer left, with houses on left. Fall is on right; go south and right, between tin roofed buildings. Turn right, now at 240d, to meet the main north–south 4WD road in Anartutu. We turned left and down to Thomas’ house near the soccer ground for a great lunch and nap. No motor vehicles have been here since 1997 when the river crossings were washed out.
On the main dirt road head north uphill out of town with the fall on the left side. About 2.5 kilometers from Anartutu after a sharp left bend there is a foot track falling down on the right. Climb down here into rainforest. In the creek bed is a water collection system, a plant nursery and a rock hole with a dipper to get water from for a shower. Be sure not to contaminate the rock pool. Soap up and wash beside, not in the rock hole.
Walk downstream past elevated water pipe outlets and a paved communal clothes washing area. Continue downstream and turn right, back onto the road where it crosses the creek twice. Then proceed uphill to the village of Illitimur. Just before the village, on a spur above the right side of the road, the NGO Roman Luan intends to build a traditional style guest house.
Illitimur to VilaAt the top of the village the road widens into a netball field. Fifteen metres on turn sharp right and scramble down a well-worn track into a creek valley. Follow the creek down in rainforest and turn sharp right to walk uphill on a road with an cutting on the right. This road winds east gently uphill through farmland to an open grassy saddle on the right side. (The track to the right disappearing over the grassy saddle is the most direct route back south-east to Vila two hours walk away.).
Our track on the road curves left up the gentle slope. The road then goes between two large trees with a stone fence on the left, then sea views on the right. Next is a wooden fence constructed of crooked branches pushed together. The well-worn track goes east through a gap in the fence and down to Beloi. North of this point we saw no people or houses.
Continue north along an overgrown track in the middle of the road, this more or less follows the spine of Atauro. After about three kilometres the road starts to climb and sweep left, with a cutting on the right. There are some scramble marks on the cutting. Climb up here onto an indistinct track heading east to a rock outcrop at the south-east corner of the grass plain, sit and take in the great views of Beloi and the offshore reefs.
Walk north-west in long grass. Cross the road on the saddle and continue north-north-west onto another rocky knoll and survey marker at the other side of the plain. There are panoramic views west into a deep ravine, and down to Adara; also north-east to the top of the island, and back to Manucoco. The road continues on north over the saddle. We retrace our steps to the road and follow it back to the crooked wooden fence and track that goes down to Beloi.
Turn left through the gap in the fence, cross a saddle and a small button grass plain. The track goes through a small patch of eucalypt woodland and descends to cross a larger grass plain. After passing through a broken stone fence it then curves to the right and onto the side of a ravine with the drop on the left. The track then follows a steep spur down to a hamlet and the confluence of two creeks.
From here simply follow the creek bed down stream to the coast road. Turn right for the four kilometre walk back to Vila.
The above trek is of medium to hard difficulty. If you approach the ten-minute ridge walk to Mt Manucoco via the track from the Anartutu side of the range, the trek is only of medium difficulty as this avoids the two dangerous sections.
In these mountains beautiful sunny conditions can quickly turn into heavy fog. You can rapidly become lost and get into serious trouble. This is one of the main reasons why it is so important to have a guide.
Note: this trek guide was written in Australia from notes taken during a trip in May 2004. It should be taken as an indication only and common sense should be used at all times. The author welcomes any corrections to update this information.
Author John Bartlett
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