By John Bartlett
A group of us are sitting on a ridge by a camp fire looking across a valley. The sun is setting behind the highest mountain in East Timor, Mt Tatamailau in the Ramelau Mountains. People and ponies are walking by our camp fire on their way home from the Ainaro market some four hours away, down south in the valley.
Next day as we walk along some of the tracks in the area I realise that these are just a small part of an amazing network. Because there are very few good roads and vehicles in East Timor, the tracks are essential to link the communities. Walking the tracks you meet many people and their ponies taking produce to market.
What a beautiful, rugged country this is, blessed with welcoming sociable people, a mild climate, very few cars on the roads and a network of walking tracks.
It's a trekkers' paradise! (And never once during the eight weeks of researching these treks in remote areas have I felt insecure or threatened.)
Trekking and the Timorese
The hill tribes in the remote mountain regions are mostly subsistence farmers. Because of cloud rain they are able to grow crops year round and produce a reasonable food supply. However transport costs are very high as roads are poor and few, so they must sell most of their produce locally. This means that very few dollars come into the district, leaving little or no money for school books and fees, purchasing medicines, tools or other necessary supplies.
As a visitor trekking in Timor, whether you are in the mountains, Oecussi enclave or on Atauro Island you will need to hire a guide and buy accommodation and food. This greatly assists in rebuilding the local economy.